Alternators - On car testing

Before we start testing the alternator, we need to carry out visual checks. This includes the connections, mountings, and tension of the drive belt. All of these were good.
The first tests that we do are no load tests, which means that there are no lights or other accessories on that will be causing the alternator to work harder.
The first test was the base battery voltage. This measured 12.42v, which is less than the 12.6v it should be.
The next test was the regulator voltage. It shoul have read between 14.5 and 14.6v. I measured 12.11v which is a fair bit less than it should be.
Finally with the no load tests was the amperage output. The carburetted output specification is between 5 and 12amps and I got a reading of .1A. I figured this was because the battery was fully charged and did not require charging from the battery. So I switched off the engine and let the fan run for a few minutes to drain the battery. I tried again and still only found that the output was .1A so I came to the conclusion that the alternator is at fault.
Next was to carry out a load test on the alternator. Since we only have have an engine, we cannot put a load on it using the accessories of a car, so we have to use a carbon pile to create a load.
since I found my alternator was not working properly, I joined the group next to me and found the output amps under load to be 29.1A and the charging voltage under load to be 12v.
The final tests were voltage drop tests. The first one was between the battery positve post and the output of the alternator. The voltage drop should be less than .2v, we measured .13v, so this is a pass. This is showing us if there is a drop in voltage from the alternator to the battery.
The second test was between the battery negative post and the body of the alternator. This should have also read less than .2v and ours read .16v which is a pass, so this is also a pass. This is showing us if there is a voltage drop through the earth part of the circuit.